Inside Story
We give a 2 year written genetic health guarantee with our pups.
Additional Puppy Info: Puppy Packets ________________________________________ Payment Options ____________________________________ Male ____________________________________________ Heterosis Effect is the correct term for intential crossbreeding. Purebreds and inbreeds often carry genetic disease. Heterosis is a theory, where the phenomenon of crossing two inbred lines can produce descendants with superior genetic foundation. In addition to the absence of inbreeding depressing, present in inbreed and purebred dogs in general, there is some remote inbreeding in any breed. Heterosis is also produced by over dominance, i.e. better combined function of two diverse genes (alleles) on a gene site (locus), compared to two identical (but harmless) ones. This increased health and vigor does not create a superior breed, but the advantages obtained from it are what produce hybrid vigor. This goal in this scenario is not to create a new breed, but to create a happy and healthy pet. Heterosis effect results in a healthier, more vigorous dog with a reduced chance of genetic disease. It is well known in all domestic animal breeding, hybrids, 50%-50% mixes of two different breeds, will raise the chances of having less genetic diseases because all doubling of detrimental effects will stop in the first generation. The genetic term for this is HETEROSIS EFFECT. This effect often gives non-related individuals stronger descendants than inbreeds.
We provide puppy packets to all new owners to help you prepare for puppies arrival. We include literature that we feel would benifit you on topics such as training, socialization, crates, grooming and more. We are always exerimenting with new products and toys. We also put together some literature on products (material, toys, food etc) that we feel are superior to others and work on the dogs we own and train past and present. We also provide you with years of research, experience, science and feed trials of the dog foods we use and recommend. It will give you the tools that you need to be able to ready a dog food label and determine for yourself what seperates superior dogfoods from the rest. We are true belivers in holistic ways and touch base on products and vacinnes. Giving table food is another covered topic. Along with literature we provide you with the key ingredient of successful potty training once you bring your puppy home. Our puppy packets change frequently with adding new literature, getting the consumers experience with their pups and other items we may find to add.
Started Pups
We have started pups on occasion. A started pup is a puppy greater than 8 weeks of age and is in a training program. We will occasionally keep pups to test our lineage in both field and obedience. Our pups are for sale at any point in our training program.
What is the best age to adopt puppy?
Puppies develop in stages as do we and not all breeds or individuals develope at the same age. This is one of those questions where google hits can often be misleading as to when that proper or best age to adopt/bring home your puppy is. The answer is not black and white because each puppy is different. Often times small breed puppies are not ready at eight weeks of age and some large breed puppies are ready before eight weeks of age. Most states even have laws regarding the earliest puppies can be released to new homes.
In puppy development the most crutial time for learning is 10-16wks of age for most. This is when puppies develop the ability to learn. Each week is crutial but these few weeks are the ideal time for this developemental stage and training must be positive. It is best not to adopt your puppy prior to eight weeks of age. Puppies learn how to socialize, play and respond with others in their species from age seven to eight weeks. Often pups leaving the litter before seven weeks of age have seperation problems and/or problems with other dogs.
We often are asked about older puppies. Adopting an older puppy can have it's advantages. The advantages that I am talking about would be in the situation with a breeder/trainer who will take the initiative to continue the puppies education and socialization as long as the puppies are in their care. Dont shy away from a discounted pup thinking that the lower price means that there is something wrong. Some breeders will discount older pups to place them faster. Use your best judgement. If a pup is acting agressively or extremely shy, then it may not have had the socialization and training that it should have received. Note that agressive and protective are two completely different behaviors.
Advantages:
- Older pups tend to be calmer and more focused and ready for formal training.
- Older pups have the bladder/bowl control to make potty training to be much shorter than a younger pup. An older pup is most likely already potty trained.
- Older pups will most likely have had their additional shots and wormings which will be less for a new owner.
- Older pups tend to adjust to new homes faster because they have already had the experience.
- Older pups tend to be better with young children because they are less energetic and excitable around them.
Male vs Female
Listed are some of the differences that we have noticed and researched on the difference of sex. This list is a generalization. This does not mean that the below is true for all females and all males.
Female
Why Crossbreeds?
For centuries, people such as farmers, horticulturists and breeders have learned that by breeding or pollinating one type or breed to another, will result in a healthier, hardier and in most cases a more beautiful creature. I have experienced this first hand growing up on the farm. We always had better meat from our hogs and better producing cows when we crossbred. The outcome is about the same with dogs (not for meat or milk). You get the best of both breeds, and diminish any negative traits from either breed increasing health and integrity. So to put in english you have a dog that is healther; bigger gene pool makes it less likely for genetic health problems, hardier; more resistant to illness and diseases like allergies and cancer. Often these crossbreeds learn more quickly and are smarter than the parent dog.
Crossbreeding is not just putting dog A with dob B. It is as exact of a science as with creating the next champion dog. Our crossbreeds are carefully planned breedings. They are based on a close study of health, temperament and standard of each potential parent animal and subsequent offspring for several generations. To us crossbreeding requires the study and knowledge of the pure breeds being used and close record keeping of the puppies produced from each breeding. Any breeder who is not breeding for these purposes is not responsible.
Hybrid Vigor- how wonderful it would be if the simple act of just cross-breeding any two pure-bred dogs could automatically ensure hybrid vigor. Hybrid Vigor is a misleading and incorrect term. A Hybrid is the crossing of two different species, ie horse + donkey = mule, lion + tiger = liger, domestic dog + wolf= wolf hybrid etc. ...
But crossbreeding cannot be done just based on the heterosis effect alone....
Carefully planned breedings should be based on a meticulous study of health and personality histories for several generations. Cross-breeding requires in depth knowledge of the pure breeds being used and a constant study of the resulting puppies. Anything less is not responsible.
And after our pedigree research is satisfatory we have to be sure the match is right. That our dogs not only have close personalities but that our dogs compliment each other to create a better next generation dog. By matching our dogs based on the above factors we can get a good idea as to what the offspring will be like. We are seeing a rise in so called breeders crossing any breed to any breed based soley on the heterosis effect. The purebred parents must compliment each other to create the 'better, happier & healthy' pet.
Aren't crossbreeds just muts? A mut is defined by a dog with unknown parent history and could possibly have multiple breeds within it's history making it dificult to determine size, coat and charater of the dog.
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Methods of Stimulation The U.S. Military in their canine program developed a method that still serves as a guide to what works. In an effort to improve the performance of dogs used for military purposes, a program called "Bio Sensor" was developed. Later, it became known to the public as the "Super Dog" Program. Based on years of research, the military learned that early neurological stimulation exercises could have important and lasting effects. Their studies confirmed that there are specific time periods early in life when neurological stimulation has optimum results. The first period involves a window of time that begins at the third day of life and lasts until the sixteenth day. It is believed that because this interval of time is a period of rapid neurological growth and development, and therefore is of great importance to the individual. The "Bio Sensor" program was also concerned with early neurological stimulation in order to give the dog a superior advantage. Its development utilized six exercises, which were designed to stimulate the neurological system. Each workout involved handling puppies once each day. The workouts required handling them one at a time while performing a series of five exercises. Listed in nor order of preference the handler starts with one put and stimulates it using each of the five exercises. The handler completes the series from beginning to end before starting with the next pup. The handling of each pup once per day involves the following exercises: 1. Tactile stimulation - holding the pup in one hand, the handler gently stimulates (tickles) the pup between the toes on any one foot using a Q-tip. It is not necessary to see that the pup is feeling the tickle. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds. 2. Head held erect - using both hands, the pup is held perpendicular to the ground, (straight up), so that its head is directly above its tail. This is an upwards position. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds 3. Head pointed down - holding the pup firmly with both hands the head is reversed and is pointed downward so that it is pointing towards the ground. Time of stimulation 3 - 5 seconds 4. Supine position - hold the pup so that its back is resting in the palm of both hands with its muzzle facing the ceiling. The pup while on its back is allowed to sleep struggle. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds. 5. Thermal stimulation - use a damp towel that has been cooled in a refrigerator for at least five minutes. Place the pup on the towel, feet down. Do not restrain it from moving. Time of stimulation 3-5 seconds. 
papered or not papered puppies being bred by the tens of thousands,
many living in a hellish world of filthy, crowded cages.
papered or not papered puppies being bred by the tens of thousands,many living in a hellish world of filthy, crowded cages.They are "puppy mill" puppies
when the puppies survive without major health defects, the puppy-mill system is a cruel one, treating
dogs like farm livestock.
Don't buy a puppy from a pet shop!!! Buying from pet shops supports puppy mills by increasing the
demand. When you are ready to buy a puppy, find a responsible breeder
Puppy Mill?
Within reason, the number of dogs kept can not alone determine if
someone is a puppy mill. Some people can love and take excellent care
of ten dogs while someone else can not properly care for one.
Some people insinuate if a person is not showing their dog they are a puppy mill.
This is not true. Some people have never shown their dogs
or have shown in the past, produced champions and top producers and just
quit showing. They breed for the pure joy and challenge of producing
beautiful puppies, striving for each generation to be better than the
last. They have that picture of the 'perfect dog' in their head too and
want to produce it.
Many breeders have formed cliques, circles of friends. They pass
their own judgement of other breeders, often when they know little or
nothing about them. They can be very quick to criticize the non-show person,
judging and denouncing them as a puppy mill. When in fact, they may have
better quality puppies and take better care of them.
Do not listen to ill winded people. Be intelligent. Be alert. You
know when an enviornment is clean; when puppies and adults are clean and well groomed. It doesn't take a person active in the showring
to study pedigrees and health issues, to be honest and caring.
Spend a little time talking to a breeder and don't be so quick to
criticize till you know the facts. Who knows, you may make a good
long-lasting friendship and come to appreciate each other. An open mind
is always more likely to find the truth than a closed one.
10 REASONS NOT TO BUY FROM A PET SHOP OR PUPPY MILL!
1. That adorable puppy in the pet store is hard to resist, but you may be paying a lot of money for a dog that you know little about. Pet stores generally rely on impulse buys to sell their "product". There is a good chance that the pet store puppy will develop a health problem sometime in its life that may cost you a lot of money to remedy. When you buy a pet store puppy it is very unlikely that the puppy's parents were screened for genetic diseases that can be passed to their offspring. Every breed of dog has genetic problems that are passed from generation to generation by breeding dogs that carry the flawed gene. Most good breeders are more concerned about the health of the puppies that they are producing than the money that they will or won't make on the production of a litter.
2. The myth about AKC papers
Most pet shops would like you to believe that if a puppy is registered by the American Kennel Club, this guarantees the puppy will be healthy and a good example of the breed. This is not so. The only thing that AKC papers certify is that the puppy is a purebred and produced out of AKC registered parents. Even this can be fiction, as some producers register more puppies than are actually born in each litter to receive extra registration slips to pass out with unregisterable puppies. They may also be horrible representations of the breed that you are buying. Often times the parentage of pet store puppies is also questionable due to poor record keeping. In other words, your puppy may not even be a purebred, even though it has AKC papers.
3. The pet shop guarantee
Many pet stores provide a form of guarantee for people buying puppies from them, but their guarantees may be as bad as none at all.
4. What will that puppy look like when it is full grown?
You may have seen specimens of the breed that you are buying, but this does not guarantee that this puppy will fit the breed standard. There is no perfect dog, but a good breeder will be willing to discuss the faults and strengths that each of their dogs possesses. Even then you can not tell exactly what the puppy will look like, but you will have a much better idea of what to expect.
5. What do you know about the breed?
Employees of pet stores generally know very little about the dogs that are in the store. Good breeders are full of information about the breed of puppy that you are considering. They will also be able to warn you about specific health problems that the breed is prone to and will be able to tell you what aspects the breed excels in. There is no breed of dog perfect for every person and a good breeder is concerned that their puppy goes to a home that they will fit into.
6. Housebreaking and training problems
This puppy that you are buying from a pet store has most likely spent much of its life in a cage. Many pet store puppies have never seen carpet and may never have even seen grass or dirt. Due to the conditions that puppies are kept in at pet stores, they have been forced to eliminate in the same area that they sleep and eat. This goes against the dog's natural instinct, but your puppy has had no choice. This habit may make housebreaking your puppy much more difficult. A good breeder keeps the puppy area very clean and makes sure the puppy has a separate elimination area. It can be much more difficult to teach a pet store puppy these daily exercises than a puppy that has been brought up properly. Most pet store puppies' parents have not been selected for any reason other than they can produce puppies that sell as cute "purebreds" registered by the AKC.
7. How about Socialization?
Your pet store puppy may well have never been in a house before. If this is the case then everything will be new and scary for them. Good breeders will expose their puppies to many situations so that the puppies are used to them by the time that they go to their new homes. A good breeder will know, due to hours of observation, which puppies are dominant and which are shy, which are energetic and which are easy going. Then the breeder will be able to match the puppy to the new owner and make sure that energetic pups go to active families and that shy puppies go to a home that can help them overcome their insecurity. Good breeders can help you make an educated decision about all aspects of your puppy's feeding, training and overall maintenance and care based on your family situation. If you are going to spend so much money on a dog that you plan to keep for its lifetime, why not find one that will fit into your lifestyle well?
8. What is a pedigree worth?
Some pet shops make a big deal out of their puppies' pedigrees. This is interesting, as the pedigree is really just a piece of paper with names on it. Unless you know the dogs behind those names the pedigree is really quite useless to the new owner. Can the pet store tell you what your puppies grand- parents died of, or how long they lived? Most pet store employees do not know any more about your puppy's background than you do. A reputable breeder can tell you all of this information about your pup's family tree and more.
9. Do you want to support puppy mills?
Almost all puppies that are in pet stores come from puppy mills. These operations are exactly what the name implies. Most mass produce puppies with money as the prime motive. Their breeding dogs are often kept in very poor conditions and are sometimes malnourished. The dogs are almost never tested for genetic diseases and may not receive vaccinations. Females are generally bred every heat cycle until they are worn out and then they are often sentenced to death. The horror of puppy mills is encouraged every time a puppy is bought from a puppy store.
How do you know that your puppy comes from one of these places? The main reason is that almost no responsible breeders will sell puppies to pet stores. Good breeders want to make sure that their puppies go to good homes and are well cared for. Buying from a pet store does not mean that you will save any money in the purchase price of the puppy either. When you buy from a reputable breeder there is no middle man involved who wants to take his share of the profit out of the price of the puppy. Often the price that good breeders charge is no more, and sometimes less, than what you will pay buying a puppy from a pet store.
10. After the puppy goes home
Once you take the puppy home from the pet store they do not generally care what happens to the puppy. Most pet shops do not care if the dog is left to run loose and kill livestock, or if it dies of liver disease at one year old. Most do not care if you take your dog home and breed it continually. Responsible breeders are more than people who sell puppies, they will also be good friends to you and your puppy. They care what happens to their puppies' once they are sold. Almost all good breeders sell on spay/neuter contracts or limited registration. Some breeders sell show quality puppies on co-ownership, so that they retain a portion of the dog's ownership, for better control of what happens to their dog later in it's life. If you have a health or training problem a good breeder will generally be able to offer you advice and help you through the ordeal. Most reputable breeder care about each of their puppies' futures and will be concerned about their welfare. They care not only about their own dogs, but also the impact their dogs will make on the breed as a whole.
So please next time you are looking for a new puppy to buy, do your research.
Hypo-Allergenic
There are many breeds that will claim their dogs to be hypo-allergenic.
Fact: nothing is completely hypo-allergenic. Any doctor will confirm that a persons tolerance to allergens is as individual as he/she is. While our schnauzers and schnoodles have been specially bred for low dander non-shedding coats and are successfully placed in families with allergies, no dog in itself is hypo-allergenic.
Puppy Socialization
We put a lot of time and energy in making sure our pups are well socialized. We handle our puppies from day one. We have adopted the Bio Sensor puppy program to start our pups out:
These five exercises will produce neurological stimulations, none of which naturally occur during this early period of life. Experience shows that sometimes pups will resist these exercises, others will appear unconcerned. In either case a caution is offered to those who plan to use them. Do not repeat them more than once per day and do not extend the time beyond that recommended for each exercise. Over stimulation of the neurological system can have adverse and detrimental results.
These exercises impact the neurological system by kicking it into action earlier than would be normally expected. The result being an increased capacity that later will help to make the difference in its performance. Those who play with their pups and routinely handle them should continue to do so because the neurological exercises are not substitutions for routine handling, play socialization or bonding. Five benefits have been observed in canines that were exposed to the Bio Sensor stimulation exercises: In tests of learning, stimulated pups were found to be more active and were more exploratory than their non- stimulated littermates over which they were dominant in competitive situations. At 14 days the eyes are opened and ears are starting to open. At this age sight limited. Basic shadows is all they can really see. They can also hear but it is not as acute as an adult.
At 2 weeks I will start to observe the pups. I let them crawl on me and I get to know each personality and start to take characteristic notes. At two weeks our children are now able to pick up and play with the pups.
At 3 weeks I will start pack introductions/ This step introduces new scents to creat curiousity without loud noises. If the pups become frightened, it will set their development back. We have found that this step starts to develope their selve confidence. Food is introduced.
At 4 weeks we start letting the pups explore out of the den. We bring in new scents to think about. We also start adapting them to new surroundings. We start taking them outdoors (weather permiting) at this age. We will start evaluating the pups at this age. Note that personalities change as they grow and have more experience with new things and noises.
At 5 & 6wks we introduce them to all sorts of toys to play with. We also bring in new obsticals to crawl through, over and under for. We also start some basic training at this age; sit and fetch. Our training is nothing serious. To them it's another game to play. We also introduce gun shots at this time. At 6wks most of the pups just love to be outside and it will become our daily workout to get them all back inside.
At 7wks the pups are just about completely weaned. Our experienced dams will wean their pups without interuptions from us. At this age most of the pups have already gotten the hang of going outside to use the bathroom. The pups are now able to keep up to a slow walk so we start lettting the pups run and play on the trails. The pups will get their first introduction to the vet's office and their first official health exam.
At 8wks the pups are pretty much going out on their own to go to the bathroom. Most have achieved basic commands. Most of them know the retrieve, the one's that don't, they get the idea and just need a few more lessons. At this age they are well adjusted to other dogs, cats and children. At this age, they are ready for new homes.
Can over vaccinating harm my dog? All of our research has paid off. Our dogs are genetically sound in both mind and body. They are exceptional hunters. They do well in new situations. Most importantly they are great family companions.
Vaccinations as the experts say are necessary. But new research has proven that vaccinations are not necessary for pet health.
Fact. Vaccines have been linked to auto-immune disease and allergies. Vaccines may also be linked to the rise in cancer.
Fact. Weimaraners are on the auto-immune difficient list. More and more purebred dogs are added to this list every year.
Vaccines are important in preventing some diseases that still occur today. The 3 most common are Canine Parvovirus, Canine Distemper and Rabies.
When puppies are born their immune systems are not mature enough to make antibodies until approximately 8 to 12 weeks of age. Nature provides for temporary immunity in the form of colostrum, which is very rich in antibodies. Babies who fail to suckle colostrum in the first few days of life will be extremeley susceptible to disease until their own immune systme matures and makes their own antibodies.
Early weaning can leave pups vulnerable to disease and early vaccinations can also be harmful to young pups.
The below is the vaccination schedule that we follow:
8, 12, 16wks - Distemper, Parvovirus, Parainfluenza & Hepatitis
14wks- Rabies (check your state regulation. MN is at least 12wks). Leave 2wks between shots.
1st Year- Distemper, Parvovirus, Parainfluenza & Hepatitis.
2nd Year-Parvovirus
3rd year- Distemper
Repeat.
Rabies is a seperate schedule according to state regulations. It is best to leave 2 weeks between the rabies shots and the other booster to prevent vaccine reactions.
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The Importance of Genetics
Genes are one of the most important factors that we strive for in our breeding program. We put alot of training, expense and time into our dogs so we do all that we can to ensure that are pups are of sound genetics before we purchase.
It can take us months or even a year to search for the right dog. More importantly we search for a good breeder. A breeder, like myself, that will strive for breed health and integrity. One who uses the breed as it is intended for, is breed knowledgeable and can easily answer my questions. A good breeder will know their own dogs inside and out and will have in depth knowledge of the pedigrees they use. Listed are some questions that we ask all breeders:
We have owned most of the dogs on our pedigrees. The dogs we don't own we know personally and have worked and hunted with.
Our genetic research started when we purchased our first pup. We did everything that we thought we were supposed to do; OFA, hip, elbow and eye certified dogs, hunters, well socialized and of course health guarantee (only 1 year, though).
At 18mos of age a limp started. Followed by slowness to rise and lay down. Then not wanting to climb stairs or inclines. Long story short, vet report came back with an early stage of hip dysplasia. We were devistated. We had already invested lots of time and money into the training, now all for nothing. Of course the surgery would be expensive and the stress of hunting and working would be to much.
It's just my luck that the guarantee is up. But the parents were OFA good and excellent. How could my dog be dysplastic? So...
The breeder was contacted and through many calls it was discovered that there were many instances throughout the pedigree of hip problems.
What did we learn? Just because the parents are certified doesn't mean that it is not in the lineage (parents are carrier dogs). If it's in the pedigree there is that chance that it could surface again in future generations.
Of course a suitable home was found for our fury friend. She lived out her days with her new family and lived to be 12.
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Why we microchip all of our puppies free of charge.
Accidents happen, and in a busy household, can happen frequently. While the first time may end quickly and painlessly, a child, or unwary visitors open the door and Barko runs free, only to be found at the next door neighbor's front yard, what about the second time? Or the third? What if you weren't home when Barko made his bid for freedom? What if he had already been gone for hours by the time you realized it?
My dog has a collar tag so why should it be microchipped?
By law all dogs have to wear a collar with a tag showing its owner's name and address. But collars can break, identification tags fall off and get lost. Microchips identify your pet permanently and harmlessly.
Can a tattoo be as effective as a microchip?
Tattooing is a painful way to identify your pet. Tattoos will fade over time making re-inking a must. Some states have already out-lawed the act of tattooing animals. The most effective way to tatto an animal is on the inner thigh. There are many cases of stolen dogs and other animals having the ears cut off to erase ownership.
A microchip is recommended as an effective way of permanently linking pets to their owners, increasing the chances of them being reunited if the animal is lost, stolen or strays.
Thousands of pets are lost every year and many are never reunited with their owners. The best way to ensure a lost pet is found is to have it microchipped - implanted with a special microchip tag.
1 in 3 lost pets never return home. Most shelters on average hold a lost pet for 7 days. After that the animal is put up for adoption, given to rescue organizations or euthanized.
How does microchipping work?
Once an animal has been microchipped it has its own unique code number. The owner's details and the code are put on to the national PetLog database. If a lost or stolen animal is found, the code will be revealed by passing a scanner over the microchip. Then it's just a matter of matching the code with the PetLog database.
How can microchipping help find my dog?
The PetLog scheme provides a fast, fool-proof way of identifying your dog, wherever it is found. Many animal welfare organisations, vets and dog wardens, have scanners which can read the microchip's details.
Why should I worry about losing my pet?
Even the most reliable and well-cared for animal can get lost or stolen. Home-loving pets are most at risk because they don't know their way around the local area.
We use avid microchips in all of our dogs and puppies.
Natural Parasite Control
Look what I stumbled on to....
EPA WARNING
updated June 23, 2009
The US Envioronmental Protection Agency is intensifying its evalutaion of spot-on pesticide products for flea and tick control due to recent increases in the numer of reported adverse reactions in pets treated with these products. Adverse reactons reported range from mild effects such as skin irritation to more serious effects such as seizures and, in some cases, dealth of a pet.
EPA's objective at this stage is simply to advise consumers and pet owners to exercise caution when using the products and to monitor pet behavior following their use, as some animals have experienced adverse reactions following treatment.
For more information, please visit EPA's pesticides database.
I found myself looking at the warning label on the Fronline Plus box this last week.. OMGOSH!! Why would anyone put that stuff on their animal is beyond me. I have had many people tell me that they have used this product and others like it and the owners would still find an ocassional flea or tick on their animal. I've even had a veterinarian (remain nameless) tell me that Frontline and many of the other products lose some of it's effectiveness once the animal is wet. Come on, who has let their dog out when there is dew on the ground?My dogs love to romp in the wet grass and swim all the time. I'm so glad we use spring time garlic and d/earth for our fury friends. I googled some of these flea and tick chemicals and it sounds like alot of people are finding these products ineffective. Sounds like these little creepy crawly pests are building resistence..... I guess 10 years (maybe more or maybe less) down the road the chemicals will be so strong that our pets will glow in the dark...how sad :O(
More info.....
Currently cancer is the #1 cause of all non-accidental dog deaths. Cancer and our children are why we did our homework and use only natural products to repel parasites on our dogs.
Sprays, dips, drops and collars all leave the chemical sitting on the skin/coat of the dog where it is exposed to our children.
Pills are ingested but this does not repel the flys and ticks so another product would have to be used. Is using chemicals a healthy choice for our pets?
Chemicals to repel parasites can also cause allergic reactions, sickness or death.
Have you ever wondered why we give these chemicals to our dogs but at the same time these products are toxic to humans? Dogs are much more sensative to chemicals than we, the humans are. Each year there are more cases of reactions, sickness and death but these products are still being used.
We use only natural and holistic products to combat parasites on our canine friends. These products are all natural, safe for our pets and they will not harm the humans either. They are even much more economical than chemicals. Website and more information on the products we use are included in our puppy packet.
